Spring Planting - A Healthy Foundation
by Cindy Kerschner
Spring is here! Like most gardener’s I’m automatically drawn to the outdoors. But before venturing outside, I survey my yard from a warm vantage point. My favorite survey spot is my kitchen window. From there at this time of year, I can see trees and shrubs which are my “plantation foundation”.
I don’t really have a plantation, but the view from inside your home is one aspect to consider when planning your landscape needs. Early spring is the best time to assess any changes you want to make in the foundation of your plantation.
Healthy landscapes start with healthy foundation plants. It is impossible to tell a tree or shrub to stick out its tongue and say, “Ahhhh”, but we can do the next best thing. We can practice preventive medicine by putting a suitable plant in a proper location. The first piece to this puzzle is deciding what kind of changes you want to make. Would more shade be a plus? Perhaps obstructing an undesirable view is on your wish list. Or maybe you just want a change of scenery.
Whether choosing a tree or shrub to fulfill your landscape needs, you need to evaluate the planting site. Ask yourself the following questions:
- Will the existing structures (home, garage, patio, driveway, etc.) affect the placement of my new tree or shrub? Structures can block sunlight, rainfall, drainage or root growth. Fallen leaves, flower blossom petals, keys (seeds), fruit or nuts on driveways or sidewalks can be hazardous.
- Is the area large enough to accommodate the type of plant at maturity that you have in mind? Check for underground pipes and underground and overhead utility cables that could interfere with tree canopy or root spread.
Buying a tree or shrub is a long term investment of both time and money. Select a tree or shrub that fits your budget now and in the future. Make your selection based on cost, ease of care, insect and disease resistance, and light and water requirements. Trees need specialized handling when planted and extra care for several years thereafter until properly established. Shrubs need a seasonal cycle of care – pruning, fertilizing watering- to insure good health.
Planting Time:
- Do a drainage test by digging a hole at the site that is about 6-inches wide and 18 to 24 inches deep. Fill the hole with water and allow it to drain overnight. The next day, fill the hole again with water and check the level after 30 minutes and again at 60 minutes and every hour thereafter until drained. Drainage at one-half inch or less per hour indicates poor drainage and suited for wet loving species. One-half to one inch per hour is considered moderate and over an inch per hour is well drained and suitable for most species.
- Dig the hole two to three times as wide as the root ball and the top of root ball should rest no deeper than soil level. Save this soil for backfill and amend with compost or fertilizer if needed.
- Soak the root ball and gently uncurl or cut circular roots bound in containers or balled and burlap (B&B). For B&B trees remove twine and loosen burlap. If plastic netting or synthetic burlap is used remove it. Cut back any wire baskets and trim damaged roots. Backfill halfway and tamp then add water the rest of the backfill material and tamp again.
- Remove tags and labels to avoid trunk constriction. Mulch 2 to 3 inches away from trunk and 3 inches deep out to the drip-line. Water weekly the first year. Check drainage so you don’t over water.
- Plant shrubs in the same fashion as you would trees. Prune broken branches and suckers at time of planting. Mulch shrubs like trees.
- Bare-rooted trees and shrubs are best planted in fall. These plants are shipped dormant and need you need to soak the roots to revitalize before planting.
A garden is like anything else; it is much stronger with a solid foundation, especially one that is water-wise and earth-friendly. Remember you can always start small and add plants over time. That’s the best part!